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Ancient
Cosmetics:
Fucus was
a general term that referred to Roman makeup. After a thorough
cleansing and moisturizing, a foundation layer of white paste
was applied. The rich favoured a foundation made from white
lead, which gave the desired effect, but is extremely toxic.
Safer alternatives include chalk and orris-root. Also, recent
analysis by the Museum of London has revealed that a paste of
fat, starch, and tin oxide makes a very effective foundation.
Roman writers often
commented on the "excessive use" of color on the face
by young ladies. This healthy glow on the cheeks was achieved
with red ochre, while lips were tinted with alkanet root or
red ochre.
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Roman cosmetic
uncovered beneath London's streets in 2003
(photo courtesy of the Museum of London) |
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Eyes received special
attention. Kohl, made with lamp-black (or soot) was applied
around the eyes and to the brows. Brows were emphasised for
a dramatic effect. Eyeshadow was often made with saffron or
finely ground gemstones, and a lavish application of perfume
would complete the treatment. By the arrival of the 1st century,
the making of perfume was already a 3000-year-old art.
Scents common to
1st century Rome were rose (especially favored by the Romans),
lotus blossom, lily, honey, sweet flag, lemongrass, lavender,
saffron, cassia, nard (spikenard), cinnamon, myrtle, laurel,
marjoram, costus root, ginger root, cardamom, labdanum, rosewood,
cyperus, wormwood, fenugreek, balsam, galbanum, opoponax, styrax,
orris root, myrrh, and frankincense. These perfumes were based
in animal fats or plant oils, or made as unguents - suspended
in honey or beeswax (which also protected the skin.)
Our members recommend
their favorite books on ancient cosmetics:
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by Lisa Manniche
